<Chad> Today is our last day in Cayo Espanto and I would be lieing if I said that we are not a little sad. The mood has been just slighly more somber than previous days. The silence between conversations has been just a bit longer, the gazes at the water, horizon, and each other, just a bit more focused.

We got started EARLY this morning, almost subconsiously, to take advantage at every waking moment of the day. I caught two bonefish by 7:00am, much to the chagrin of the other early fisherman, I had found the school and laid stake to the dock to cast ever so precisely, slowing down to really relish every moment of it. I had a goal of landing two today to make a total of twelve for the week. So after my second catch I left the dock for the next guy… a guy with more time than I left on the island. I’m not sure that he caught anything, I am also not sure why that brings a smile to my face.

<Marci> Since the wind was so calm, we wanted to do a beautiful morning kayak ride. We set sail about 7:30AM with the morning just beginning. We do this often at home to beat the morning heat, but had not taken the opportunity to have a morning kayak trip yet. Today, the breeze was perfection, we really savored the salty air and the quiet reflection on the water. Since the island is only four acres, our trip was fairly short. We pulled around the last leg of our journey to see Casa Solana, our home for the past week. What a great place!

We decided to order our favorite breakfast from this week, we both chose the eggs benedict. As Alex cleared the table, he told me that any recipe we wanted, he would let the chef know – and Richard would make a copy. I certainly wanted that Hollandaise sauce for the eggs benedict, it was fantastic. With breakfast cleared and a whole day at our disposal, Chad quickly set to fishing and I to reading. I kept peering over my book to check out the view – the sun was starting to rise and the day was certainly set to be a perfect one.

<Chad> After breakfast I found my way out on to the flats, chasing glints. I found some of my little friends relatively quickly, made a backcast up wind and connected with another little 1-2 pounder, that makes three for the day… lucky thirteen. The heat was really crankin’ up on the day and the sun was probably the most intense it had been all week. I needed to shelter my sun soaked skin. I came back to the house where Marci was having so much fun finishing the entry for day six, totally cracking herself up. I love that laugh, the one that she has when she is laughing so hard she starts crying. You just can’t help but feel happy when you hear that.

I found shelter from the sun in a shady spot under the umbrella and polished off a Belikin… at 10:30am. I studied Marci’s sweet face, unbenounced to her, as she quietly typed. I said a little prayer to thank God for my wonderful wife and this awesome final day of our honeymoon. My eyelids got heavy and I almost fell asleep right there but, told myself to get up and enjoy every minute of the day.

<Marci> I finished my log of day 6 and looked over to find Chad almost asleep on the lounger. I took a pic without him knowing….

We read the story together and both got to laughing about all our crazy adventures together. Chad loves it when I read to him, and I could barely keep it together as I read to him. I cry at the slightest bit of emotion, happy or sad. This cry was happy, but also a bit nostalgic – we were recounting our days together and there were many stories to tell.

Lunch came a bit later, it was a huge Club with handmade chips. We were in heaven. Those darned Wave drinks will put you in a mood, we both landed on the backside of lunch with a bit of a buzz. James Taylor was playing in the background. We made a pact yesterday that each time, “Something in the Way She Moves,” plays, we have to dance to it. Well, right in the middle of lunch, we dropped our sandwiches and had a twirl on the deck. Chad makes me laugh, we really do have a good time together.

<Chad> Actually, we danced once to “Something in the Way She Moves” before lunch. Then, because the CD was on loop, stood up from our lunch when it played a second time. We are doing pretty well with our pact.

After lunch we had a dip in the pool, I soon spotted a school of bones and was back at it. Sunburn be damned, I’m going in! The wind had all but died, so I sweat to death in my long sleeve shirt. Suncreen burning my eyes, I slowly stalked the school. It took about 20 minutes to finally postion myself upwind of the school to make the cast. The school was spooky, scattering with even a glimpse of the fly line. After several tries, I landed my fourth of the day, totaling 14 for the week.

The sun was relentless. Marci was still quite happy in the pool, nice and cool with an umbrella shading her. Back to the pool for me for a beer and my bird. Fishing is fun, snuggling is better.

<Marci> As I watched Chad stalking his beloved bones, I noticed I was closing in on the end of Condoleezza Rice’s biography. Two books in one week – have not accomplished that since I was a kid in the summer! I, too, was attempting to dodge the blasted sun. My skin has had enough – my arms are roasted and toasted! Chad and I spent some time in the pool together, enjoying the view and taking in our last day. By about 3PM, my skin was cooked, so I headed for the shower. Chad headed for the dock to stalk a barraccuda, intent on using his popping cork to catch one of those ugly little rascals. No avail, but I did watch him cast for a while, really enjoying his progress this week.

Once I was showered and clean, I started to pack our things. Since we packed so light for this trip, it really didn’t take too long! Chad came back in and broke down all the fishing equipment, then showered and packed. We were all ready to settle in for our last sunset on the beach.

<Chad> The sunset was simply stunning tonight, as if to wish us off with one last glorious orange kiss. This place is magical, full of adventure and romance. Marci and I talked yesterday about the experience of snorkling on the world’s second largest barrier reef. The amazing feeling of “flying” over this rich stock of diversity and life. We both agreed that it was a humbling experience and it really makes you think about how there has to be something bigger out there. Tonight as I watched the sun, as big as I have ever seen it, sink below the horizon, I thought about the same thing.

Alex and Rick delivered cocktails along with shrimp cocktail, and Chef Richard brought the dinner menu. Lobster Ravioli for Marci and Cashew Crusted Snapper for me. As we enjoyed the happy hour, we decided to sit down and document our final day in Cayo Espanto. Creating a journal of this trip has been very fun and we have enjoyed sitting down at cocktail hour to do so most evenings. Marci and I both agree that it is something we want to continue even when we get back home.

<Marci> Dinner was set at 7 sharp, Alex led us to a magrove tree filled with twinkle lights and lanterns. A beautiful table was set under the stars for us. Alex asked if we wanted champagne, since we had not ordered it all week and it was part of the honeymoon package. We, of course, said yes! Alex took a great picutre of us at our candlight dinner together.

We spent the evening laughing and talking about our week together. We also seemed to fall into the everyday conversation of our neighbors, our families, and the ordinary things we discuss on a regular weeknight at home. We were starting to transition our minds back to the real world. The tortilla soup was fantasic – we both commented on the quality of soups all week and I vowed the winter, more soup for us in our meals! We had a garden salad, then sat back to enjoy some of our champagne. The light breeze, the bubbly champagne, the great love sitting next to me, what heaven! Alex and Ric then brought out main courses, we both savored each bite. The ravioli was hand made and was topped with two lobster tails. Chad’s snapper was encrusted with cashews, we both decided that would be a great addition to our weekly fish recipes. For dessert, my favorite, KEY LIME PIE! The chef prepared a mini key lime pie topped with piped merangue, a mini key lime souffle, and a key lime shooter of margarita. The shot was set in frozen ice, it was so cool!

Dinner came to an end, we took last sips of champagne and thanked Alex for his hard work this week. We were given a guest book to sign and a survey to complete as we left the candlelight dinner. We walked along the dimly lit trail back to our villa and both started to get a little sad. What a week! What an experience! We readied for bed and called it an early evening. As we lie in bed, Chad and I talked about the week more and how much fun we had. This week was MAGICAL!

DEBARKATION

<Chad> We woke up early Monday morning and packed up our remaining things. Marci and I walked out to the end of the dock as the sun just started to rise up over the tree tops. The school of bonefish that were so easily found at the end of that dock were curiously absent this morning, nowhere to be found, as if to NOT tempt me to unpack the fly rod. We ordered Eggs Benedict for breakfast, it was our favorite of the week and seemed right for our final meal on the island. As breakfast was cleared, we settled our bill and spent the remaining hour just looking out at the amazing view. The last hour seemed to drag by, we knew what was ahead. At about 8:45, my little friends appeared en masse. Four to five hundred bones lined up no more than 30 feet from our house, as if to bid us farewell.

Marci and I talked about how it felt like we were saying goodbye to an old friend. As Alex and Ric accomponied us to the dock where our boat waited, the entire staff lined up on the dock to say goodbye. Such class! While it was very difficult to say goodbye to our magical island, I told Marci, I was not sad that I was leaving because I was taking the best part of the trip home with me, my wife.

<Marci> Honeymoon of the ages, I must say. You cannot top that one, it was one for the books. Well, how about one for the blogs.

We head back to Orlando as Mr. and Mrs. Helenthal, two peas in a happy little pod. To soften the blow, we have already planned a kayak trip this Saturday…. fly rods included. : )

Today is our snorkel to Hol Chan and Shark Ray Alley. The water is a bit choppy, but the wind is down considerably from yesterday.

We awoke to breakfast tacos. Now, these things were hearty, chock full of chorizo and eggs. We sat on the deck and started getting excited about the day ahead. Chad has snorkeled all over the Caribbean on various sailing trips. I have also been on family vacations to the Abacos Island in the Bahamas. Chad and I also went snorkeling a few years ago in Punta Gorda in southern Belize. These experiences were about to be shadows of one of the coolest days in our lives together.

To digress, Chad was also pumped this morning, as he caught a bonefish BEFORE breakfast. It was 7:30AM and Chad is yelling, “I caught one.” He is like a kid in a candy store here. The fish are right off our dock and are just waiting to wrestle.

We head out to Hol Chan with our guides, Victor and Eddie. It is off the southern coast of Ambergris Cay and about 15 minutes by boat from our dock. Hol Chan is a Belizean national reserve – no fishing and the diving is tightly restricted. It is located in the middle of the ocean where a large barrier forms off the coast. Here, it becomes very shallow and you can see occasional forms of coral poking from the water. We tied up to one of the boat “parking buoys,” put on our snorkels and fins, and headed into a colorful and unforgettable hour.

Victor escorted us, pointing to the various corals, fish, and other sea life. We saw an array of damsel fish, tangs, jacks, groupers (huge!), tarpon, eagle rays and sting rays, puffers, moray eels, green turtles, wrasse, barracuda, angels and snapper. For coral, we saw fire, branch, brain, sea fans, kitchen tables, and anemone. Victor was so knowledgeable about the fish and corals, he even took us across a very shallow area that most snorkelers did not go through – there were other groups out in the water, but this special tour of the shallows really took us off the tourist path. Toward the end, we headed to see a green turtle, he was feeding – it was such a great experience to see it a few feet away from us!

We raced the boat to Shark Ray Alley next. Now, I may not be the brightest bulb in pack, but it only dawned on me as we were headed to SHARK RAY ALLEY that we would be swimming with….. wait for it……. SHARKS! I started to get a little panicky, not sure how I was going to weasel my way out of this part on the trip. Nonetheless, we sped along to my impending doom.

Sharks are a scary bunch. But, luckily, I started thinking about the movie Strange Wilderness and got a little laugh.

We arrived at the alley and yes, to my suprise, there were a shit ton of sharks. Not just a few… A LOT. To exacerbate the concern, Eddie our driver started throwing chum into the water. The sharks went nuts. They were eating the chummy treats, just like they would be eating one on my fingers in just a moment. We all watched in amazement (and a little horror) at the feeding frenzy, when I asked, “are we really going in that?” Victor coolly said, “of course, ladies first.” While I am not one to get uppity about being treated like a lady, this was one time I really wished I could be second. I strapped on my fins and mask and for some ridiculous reason, decided to jump in the water. As I landed in the choppy water, I took in about a gallon of sea water through my snorkel and came up coughing and wishing for air. Panic – check. Sharks – check. No air – check. swirling water – check. I was doomed.

Chad, in what seemed like an eternity, got into the water with me. After clearing my lungs and trying to relax, I put my mask in the water to survey my surroundings. There were three nurse sharks about 5 feet from me, a ton of other fish trying to score a snack, and to my suprise, Eddie was STILL throwing chum in the water. Next, Victor swam right to one of the nurse sharks and hugged it, then gently coaxed it over to us. Chad willingly touched the scary thing, but I politely declined, as the music from Jaws played in my head.

We headed out to the reef and took in another spectacle of color and life. At times, I felt as if I was watching a PBS special on the most beautiful coral in the world, only to pinch myself and realize I was not dreaming. Victor also coaxed over a sting ray (barb still intact, mind you) to visit us as well. I did actually pet the sting ray, as for some reason a barb did not seem as deadly as shark teeth. As we traveled over the reef, we saw schools of fish swim in circular patterns together to create a tight ball of life. Hundreds of them would tightly swim in unison to create the shape, then one would break and the entire group would fall out of the circle and get in a lock step march in a line. They worked in one mind – it was very interesting to watch.

As we headed back to the boat, I noticed the boys start to swim really fast away from something. I could not see a shark, so I was baffled. I popped my head out of the water and asked Chad, he said, “just move.” Apparently, there was a box jellyfish that swam about two feet from Victor’s face. These are HIGHLY poisonous, and if their tentacle even lightly touches your skin, you can be in agonizing, burning pain for weeks with no relief. Luckily, we moved away and got closer to the boat. As we neared the boat, we noticed the cattle call excursions were arriving for the day. The boats were loaded with scores of people, ready to snorkel. We had been in the alley, up to this time, practically alone, but now, the masses were arriving to play. Victor insisted I touch a shark, so he found a little one and brought it over for me to touch. I, begrudgingly, touched the sharks tail. It felt like sand paper, it was not what I expected. We soon loaded the boat, had a beer, then headed back to our island.

We had a beautiful lunch right on the beach near our villa. I had an Asian salad with peanuts and chicken, Chad had a fish sandwich that was served open-faced with plantains on the side. After lunch, I had a great idea that I wanted to have a fishing competition with Chad. Being a competitive person, this always sounds better in my head than the reality of what happens. I was going to battle the kid who has been practicing all week, while I sunbathed and read on the sideline. Hmmm, not a good match up.

Nonetheless, we decided stalking the bonefish was better than blind casting, so I set out into the shallows with my rod and Chad stayed on shore to spot the fish. On about the third cast, I had a fish on, but I lost it in the final feet when I let slack occur in the line. Blasted, I did not land one. I had a few other nibbles, but no serious takers. The sun, the beers, and the afternoon started making me want to head back to that beach. Chad and I switched, so I spotted for him on the shore, much happier with a beer in my hand. He is getting really good at fishing, even during these few days, he has imporved immensely in his casting and accuracy to land the fly. And, he is just so freaking adorable when he catches a fish – his eyes light up and you can tell it is really exciting for him.

We decided to finally shower and get cleaned up for the evening. We had a lot of sun and were both pretty salty, sandy, and smelly. But, thank goodness, we clean up good!

For cocktail hour, we decided to change it up a bit and have wine and cheese. We ordered a bottle of Merlot and Alex brought us a plate of beautiful cheeses, fruits and crackers. Some of the cheese was really tasty, for instance the smoked gouda and the cheddar. But then, we also had some of the stinkiest cheese ever found on earth. Now we love cheese, and we have tasted some pretty rank cheeses when we went to Berlin last year. Cheese outside of the Unites States is unpasteurized, so when you have the opporunity to eat real cheese, it is a treat. Now, there was one cheese on our tray that, literally, smelled like dirty socks. I called it the track meet cheese. Chad took a whole bite of it (including the soft rind) and then proceeded to have a sip of wine. He recoiled back, saying it was like a puff of ammonia in his nose. I, then of course, had to try it to. Track meet cheese held up as the stinkiest cheese of the night for sure. We also played one of Chad’s podcasts through the speakers in the house and danced a little. This is when I know he is a good man, he dances with me even when we are alone.

Dinner was set right off the beach of our house in the same location as lunch. Alex even put a message in the sand, “Chad loves Marci.”

 With the wind down considerably, we had a quiet evening of laughter and fun. Someone across the island was playing some pretty terrible music, so we kept making fun of their horrible taste in pop music. By the endof dinner, it was apparent I had gotten a bit too much sun today, so I asked Alex for some aloe. Chad and I retreated back to the house. I covered myself in solarcaine and aloe, and walked out ready to go to bed. I, clearly, was looking super hot in my pajamas and three coats of aloe goo. These, boys and girls, are the true romantic moments in life.

In true old married couple fashion, we curled up in bed, I reading my Rice biography, and Chad, his fly fishing magazine. In one short week, we had arrived at that old married couple status, reading silently in bed. We both got laughing about it, but were both so tired that we didn’t really do anything to change it – we just laid there quietly and enjoyed being snuggled next to one another.

I can truly say that this was one of my favorite days in my life. The snorkeling experience with Chad ranks as one of our best adventures yet. We have had so many this far, roller coaster birthdays, Wekiva kayak picnics with a bottle of St. Francis, mountain biking through Snow Hill (and actually not killing myself on one of the turns), dancing til dawn at Panorama in Berlin, getting dressed up and eating at Chicago Chop House, camping in Geneva and catching bass, our engagement cruise to the Bahamas, our kayak trips to Satellite, wine and cheese on the balcony at our loft in Berlin, biking Berlin, cycling the MS150, air boat rides across the swamps, Gator parties with our family and friends, thousands of hours on our back porch contemplating the world and how it would run smoother if we just ran it, morning snuggle time on a Saturday.. all adventures in thier own right. And even this most recent adventure – our wedding day – this one is my favorite now. Chad and I have chosen to start a life as one, I cannot begin to thank God enough for this blessing in my life.

Marci and I have done pretty well with alternating adventurous days and relaxation days. Neither of us felt the need to completely fill each and every day with activities but rather, made sure that we would take some time to slow down, read, fish, sun, eat, and just spend some quiet time together in this magical place.

This morning we slept in… sort of… and woke up at 8:30 or so. A quick call to Alex and coffee and eggs benedict were delivered. The Hollandaise sauce was probably, no scratch that, DEFINITELY the best I have ever had. Marci agreed that this morning’s breakfast was the best so far. The weather is a bit overcast with a 5-10mph wind, the temperature so pleasant.

After finishing breakfast, Marci and I talked about our goals for the day. Marci’s goal… finish her book and start another (Condoleezza Rice’s biography) and get a massage. My goal, catch a barracuda on 12lb leader with a topwater popper and get a massage. Marci soon returned to her book and I to my fly rod. I decided to stalk the flats this morning. Seeing fish while wading in windy water is a challenge but my patience paid off. I happened on to a small school of bonefish about 100 yards from our house. I started casting a Gold Charlie and soon hooked up… doh, he slipped the line. Another cast or two and same thing, a hook up and a slip off. One more cast and I found my mark, then POP… the barracuda had cut my line and was rewarded with some jewelry in his face. Maybe I’ll get him with that popper later today and get my fly back.

I ran back to the house and tied on about 4 more feet of tippet along with another Gold Charlie. Thirteen feet seems to be the magic number here. A few casts later and I had my first Cayo Espanto Bonefish! While Marci and I had both caught bones with Mark this week, there is something so rewarding about stalking, finding, and catching your own little friend as I have started calling them. Marci got a pic of my friend.

Soon after I talked Marci’s ear off about what an amazing and spiritual experience it has been to learn to fly fish and catch the mighty bone on said fly, Brenda the masseuse arrived. Marci was up first. I was back to the catch… I had found a school of bones after all. As I gazed back in to the house at my beautiful bird, relaxing, getting her massage, I continued to cast to the school. Another hit… a scream of the drag, and several minutes of honest to goodness fight, another little bonefish was sent on his merry way. I was glowing with satisfaction, two bones today on my own. I decided to take a little pic of Marci in her happy place and then return to my fishing.

When I returned to the dock, it seemed the school had doubled, maybe tripled in size. There was a rainbow of flashes as the sun finally peaked from behind the clouds. This was like taking candy from a baby, so I thought. Several casts later and I felt that familiar “thud” on my line followed by serious weight. The loose fly line at my feet burned through my hand at lightning speed… that will leave a mark. Before I knew it, this little friend had stripped all of my fly line and about half of my backing. I started to play the fish, or maybe it was the fish that played me. Run after run had me hooting and hollering. Three, now four runs this bone had made stipping line to the backing, this was not the kind of fight I had with the 1-2 pounders. After 20 minutes of solid fight, running, reeling, jumping off the dock, running around the island, jumping back on the dock, then off, then to the other side of the helicopter pad, I met my little friend. Luckily I had the camera for a self portrait. Now I understand the allure of the mighty bonefish.

An hour had passed and Marci’s massage was over. I was not sure what to do. Should I leave the mighty school? Will they be there when I come back? What should I do? I showered and laid down on that massage table is what I did. Brenda has healing hands after all! An hour of complete and total relaxation as I basked in my fishing glory. When I awoke it was time for lunch. Marci and I both chose the Ceviche and Shrimp Quesadillas today. We usually try to order something different so we can try multiple dishes. Not today though. There was no way we were ordering anything different than the ceviche. It was a great decision as this was the best lunch so far. A HUGE portion of shrimp and Spiny Lobster Ceviche, Shrimp Quesadillas, and fresh corn tortilla chips. Wow what a lunch! A couple of Waves to wash it down and then it was time for Marci to feed the bonefish craving.

Marci grabbed her rod and started to wade. The wind had picked up so I decided to stay up by the house on high ground to help spot the school for her. Soon enough, we spotted part of the school about 40 ft from her. Marci false casts several times with the wind at her back and shoots the line 35 ft or so. Strip, strip… she has a fish on… doh, he slipped off. The school does not move. Several casts later, she is on again then dangit… he slips again. The school moves, Marci adjusts several steps upwind, then forward to the school. She casts again and wammo, she’s got one. After several minutes of playing the fish she lands her first Cayo Espanto Bonefish… all by her “selfing!” I love to fish, I love to catch even more, but I must say, I absolutely love to see Marci land a fish, it just makes me so proud. She is quite the natural!

For happy hour tonight we both started with dirty martinis. That got things started and before we knew it, old episodes of the Chill with the Chola podcast played on the stereo and we danced to bossas and sambas. For dinner Marci chose the Cornish Game Hen and I the Mahi Mahi. Both were quite satisfactory and, we ended the evening with a Chocolate Trio featuring a lava cake, chocolate souffle, and chocolate strawberries.

It has been a wonderful day full of relaxation and impromptu adventure with the fly rod.We spent quite a bit of time talking about how wonderful it is to be together and that it is rare that we get to spend a full week by each other’s side.We think the idea of the honeymoon is quite brilliant. You get to experience one of the most important days of your lives together, your wedding day, and then take a week to really start nurturing that loving union. We highly recommend it! 🙂

Marci did finish her book and start another. I did not get that barracuda on topwater but what I did get was, an amazing day with my wife that I will not soon forget. BTW, Marci has been quite enamored with my left hand since last Saturday. So here is a nice close up…

And here is a cute one of the bird, just because…