Cayo Espanto Day 4: Belikins, James Taylor, and Wind… Oh, my!

We awoke this morning to a howl… a howling wind that is! The sea breeze had picked up to a significant clip and we opened the villa door to quite a gust of wind across the water. An overcast day, but beautiful nonetheless. We set out on another day of fishing with Mark. As we tore across the flats of the bay, it was clear we were in for quite a bumpy ride.

Originally, we wanted to fish for permit and tarpon, but the chop in the water made it impossible to locate the schools or even singles. We took a scenic ride across the flats for an hour or so, stopping at a few spots Mark felt we may find a school. No luck. We headed back to our trusty Tuesday spot, a great cove of mangroves full of bones. Chad started the day casting first –  mind you, in the whipping wind! Even at the disadvantage of the weather, Chad quickly set on his first bonefish of the day.

Next up, the fishing extraordinaire…. me. The wind also challenged me, but I actually got into a great rhythm with my casting and the wind helped to lay out my line farther out and very straight. I had an early hit, but lost it due to my excitement, I tried to set that hook like a pro-bass fisherman and Mark thinks I probably took out the poor bonefish’s cheek in the process! After a while, I was on another fish, determined to not miss this one. The fishing gods were graceful and I caught one! As my neice Bella says, “all by myselfing!” Mark and Chad were trading fish stories and I, without any help, caught a bonefish!!! I was completely impressed with my fishing prowess!!!!

Mark has a great life story. Since we alternated fishing on the bow of the boat, we both had down time to sit on the boat and hear his stories. Mark has lived in San Pedro for years, and his entire family works as fisherman and guides. His uncles run deep sea charters, while he sticks to fly fishing charters. He loves the water and grew up learning the best spots. His father, a boat maker, built his son a mahogany boat at the age of fourteen. Mark has been on a boat ever since. He has two adorable sons, who I got to see in pictures he quickly pulled out on his cell phone. He chooses to fish on his days off, and goes to church every Saturday with his family. Great guy, great story, we really found a good friend and fisherman in Mark.

We got back to the house around 11AM and decided to have a Wave. Well, that got the party started – we broke out the James Taylor CDs and started our own party. We danced to, “Something in the Way She Moves,” to commemorate our first dance at the wedding. We also imbibed a few of those delicious Belikin beers. Belikin is the local Belizean beer and it has a dark coffee taste. A ew drinks later, we were pretty happy and very much ready for lunch!

Lunch arrived and we were served on the east opening of the house to shelter against the wind. I had a cold gazpacho soup and grilled vegetable sandwich, while Chad had a tilapia fish sandwich with island fries. I snaked a few of the those delicious fries while Chad was not watching! We reminisced about all the fun on the boat and how fun it was to be toasty in the early afternoon – a couple of “wild and crazy guys” we really are! Now, mind you, Chad retreated to the bed and was sawing snore logs by the time dessert arrived. As a good wife, I could not wake him from his deep sleep….. so I ate the whole dessert myself! Vanilla ice cream and apple crumble! I quickly took a spot on the soft bed next to Chad and we napped through the afternoon.

As I write this portion for the day, Chad is on the helicopter pad that is adjacent to our villa. He is trying a new spot and is intent to catch a bonefish from the shore here. Earlier he caught two needle fish, they loved his popping cork. The needle would break out of its school and smack the cork, actually getting the barb caught in its side! They are fiesty little guys once you get them out of the water, they tried to swing around and take a nibble off Chad’s hand.

Drinks just got here, Manhattans for Chad and a dirty martini for me. For dinner, I chose the bacon-wrapped filet with parmesan risotto and Chad chose the local grouper. We start with a tomato bisque and end with dragon fruit trio for dessert. Dragon fruit is a local fruit with a deep purple color that reminds me of kiwi. Sign off from paradise, friends!

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