We have arrived at Cayo Espanto! After a quick flight to Miami, we boarded our first class flight to Belize City where we enjoyed cocktails and a wonderful Filet Mignon lunch. I highly recommend the upgrade to first class!
In Belize City, we landed in the tiny airport, reminiscent of Casablanca airstrip circa 1950s. After a short break, we boarded a Maya Air flight to San Pedro, a short puddle hop from the main land. Marci had never flown in a single prop, 10-12 seater before, so we had to get a picture and some video of her first trip.
Marci sat right behind the pilot and I sat behind the interestingly enough, empty co-pilot seat which rewarded me with a prime location to shoot some high def video of the islands and our crosswind, rudder heavy, landing. We shared the flight with two Aussies, who were instantly interested in our honeymoon status. They reminded me of a couple that had seen quite a bit of life, and had enjoyed it thoroughly. They went on about the untouched character and the great authenticity of San Pedro. The flight was very smooth and the scenery was beautiful.
We were met at the airport by Alex, our wonderful houseman, a quiet and reverent fellow. His attention to detail, as we have quickly learned, makes him perfect for this job. He is always listening, picking up on subtle details, then translating them into special moments. Also at the dock was German, the dive guide. We loaded the boat and set sail to our perfect tropical private island.
The wind was definitely up today so, after a bumpy ten minute ride, we arrived at Cayo Espanto where the entire staff was lined up on the dock to introduce themselves and greet us. We enjoyed a Cayo Espanto Wave, the island’s signature drink. The color of this perfect drink matches the aquamarine water around the island. Ester, the manager of the island, accompanied us on a short walk to Casa Solana, the honeymoon suite. Our walk took us down a beautiful path of well manicured, raked sand, decorated with lovely pictures of palms, flowers, and hearts etched in the sand. Every detail centers around attention to beauty and elegance.
Casa Solana is absolutely lovely. A quaint building with a large bedroom, high ceilings, a small den, and a single bath sits a top a raised deck. It is surrounded on two sides by the most interesting aqua-colored water I think I have ever seen. Not quite the rich blue of the Caribbean nor the deep greens of Mexicanwaters, but, a gin clear, sparkling aqua. A freshwater infinity plunge pool sits outside of the main doors looking out to the ocean. The tile color in the pool creates the infinity effect perfectly, it is as if you could step off into the ocean!
The water is quite cold for such a little pool, but, is nice and refreshing in the afternoon sun. Thankfully, the ocean water is warmer, so a mini dip is in our near future. Extending from the beach is a two to three foot flat of clear ocean water for what seems to be miles around the island. This depth is perfect for wading out and fly fishing. Needle fish, bonefish, and barracuda are within clear eyesight of the villa. I am in heaven!
We were greeted at Casa Solana with delicious quesadillas… not that we really needed them after polishing off a filet lunch on the airplane, but hey… this is a vacation! They were covered in fresh pico de gallo and sour cream, two of the most perfect foods on earth! After we had finished our tasty snack, we were quickly offered the lunch menu, not the we needed lunch after a filet lunch on the plane and a quesadilla snack… but hey, this isn’t just a vacation… IT’S A HONEYMOON!
For lunch, Marci had the Key Lime shrimp salad and I had the chicken avocado Club sandwich. Marci’s salad was covered in chargrilled shrimp and ripe avocados. My sandwich was also made with avocados and crispy bacon, and was served with a fresh salad. While the salad was not Marci’s favorite, her shrimp were OUTSTANDING! As for my club sandwich, while I have tasted many a club in my life, was one of the best! For dessert, we had bananas foster with rum ice cream, a perfect ending to our first meal on the island!
After lunch, we both spent time fishing with spinning tackle around the house. The wind was too high on this overcast day to bring out the fly outfits. Marci soon tired of casting the small yellow jig and fell victim to the alluring song of the soft, white, down covered, siren in our bedroom. Nap time is something that will be prescribed and taken daily for the duration of our stay. I soon followed and nodded off for 45 minutes or so until I noticed the wind died down. I quietly hopped out of bed and ran off to the long dock next to the house, leaving Marci still sleeping deeply.
I did cast the fly rod a bit but, found the wind still made it too difficult to get anywhere accurately. I decided to switch back over to spinning tackle and within a few minutes, landed my first barracuda. Fierce buggers those barracudas. They seem to come from nowhere at warp speed, attack the lure violently, and then run as hard as they can in the opposite direction. I was so excited, I ran back to the house with my catch and woke Marci with a mighty “BIRD, it’s a BARRACUDA!” Marci was in such a deep sleep, I am not sure that she thought it was real, or something in a dream so she just laid back down. I said, “Hey birdy, grab the camera, I got a barracuda.” This time, she begrudgingly got up and snapped this pic before laying back down…
I caught another one shortly after, I decided not to wake her for that one! 🙂
As the 5:00 hour hit, cocktails started to call our names. Now don’t get me wrong, we had several Cayo Espanto Waves throughout the day as well as plenty of beer from our well stocked fridge. But you see, in the Helenthal household, the cocktail hour is a tradition. About the time we had decided exactly what we wanted, Alex rounded the corner carrying two vodka sodas with fresh local lime… it is like magic here, I think they can read your mind. With Alex was Chef Richard, ready to discuss the evening’s menu. Marci’s choice, the Jerked Shrimp, served atop a bed of curried couscous. My choice, the Plank Grilled Red Snapper served on a bed of white wine and parmesan risotto. After a couple of Vodka sodas and then a couple of Manhattans, Marci decided to pop in our Wedding CD, and we worked up an appetite dancing by moonlight in our private paradise.
We decided on a late dinner and at 8:00. We were greeted by Alex, our houseman, and Rick, his second, in formal dinner service attire. During our first course, Alex arranged a Mariachi singer to serenade us by moonlight. The first course was a black bean puree with cumin, garlic, and onion. The second course, a trio of ceviche. My god… the ceviche was one of the finest I have had. Conch, spiney lobster, and shrimp… each served in a different style and flavor. The favorite, hands down… the shrimp ceviche as it was served with fresh coconut and lime. WOW! The main course was one of the best meals both of us have ever had. That says a lot as we are definitely foodies, and, foodies that cook! The snapper was plank grilled with a light seasoning, the natural flavor of the snapper in perfect balance with the smokiness of the grill. Marci’s shrimp were also grilled, holding a charred and spicy note. For dessert, the “Choc-o-holic” trio completed the meal. While I am not a dessert man myself, Marci was in chocolate heaven. Chocolate cake, chocolate mousse, and chocolate ice cream – what a trio! I think Alex had just cleared the table as we drifted off to sleep. Ahhh…