Cayo Espanto Day 2: Here Fishy, Fishy, Bonefishy……

Early morning start on day two of paradise. We decided a half-day fishing charter for bone would start this week off right. We awoke at 6AM to Alex on the walkie talkie asking what we would like for breakfast. To digress, all we must do if we want something is pick up the walkie-talkie, and Alex is on the other end. Beer, coffee, snacks, towels…. just talk into the happy walkie talkie! Note to self, taking Alex (and walkie talkie) home with us! But I digressed…

After a light breakfast of local fruits and fresh croissants, we put on our swimmies and headed out for fishing. Alex escorted us across the island to a dock where we met our local guide, Mark. A short man of Mayan descent, Mark’s easy smile and quick wit charmed us immediatly. Chad’s first question, “Are you a patient man, Mark?!” He laughed at us, nodded yes, and the day got off to a perfect start.

We headed out on Mark’s flats boat, called “Baby Ruth,” across a gorgeous flat of aquamarine water. Mark knew of a school of bonefish in a secluded cove area surrounded in part by mangroves. The wind was still in our disadvantage, so he wanted to find a sheltered spot we could avoid the wind and still catch a ton of bones. The trip was magnificent, flats all the way, clear water to the floor, greens and blues mixed with salty water and overcast sun – we were in for a day of fishing delight.

After our short trek over the flats, we headed toward the mangroves and into a wide channel. On one spit of mangroves, you could see the encroachment of civilization, a set of powerlines – something totally out of the ordinary in this lush tropical environment. While this area is clearly untouched by modernity, there are small realities that this land will soon be inhabited be part of a tourist Mecca. We arrived at a perfect time – a sleepy island and a pristine landscape still untouched.

Bonefish we found – Mark set us on a school of over a thousand bones. He cut off the engine and used a long wading pole to push us around the cut away of mangroves. We followed the fish and began casting to the gigantic school. While our casting was a little less than desirable, Mark was indeed patient and began to teach us how to land a silver beauty. Chad was first up of on this day, catching his first bonefish. I could tell, he was so excited, this was a moment he would savor forever – his first fish on a fly rod. Then, it was my turn. While Chad has been diligently practicing his casts over the past weeks and has been a true student of the craft, I, on the other hand, am quite, “here for the ride.” Mark could tell I just wanted the thrill of the catch, so after a few attempts of my casts, he took the rod and landed it into the school. He handed me the rod and…. BAM…. fish on!

I screamed like a little kid, and Mark shouting, “let go,” as I attempted to treat the bone fish like a bass, fighting it all the way. With bonefish, you let them run out your reel, so as to tire them out. With great pride, Mark pulled the bone out of the water and handed the fish to me. I, in perfect girly fashion, proceeded to hold it for a second, then allowed the fish to shoot out of my hands and go careening across the boat! Poor fish! Mind you, I caught two fish today, both of which went sailing across the boat because I did not have a tight grip! Chad and I caught two fish each, it was a glorious day and I could tell a highlight of this trip for Chad.

Mark took us back to our dock and we were greeted by Ester. Lunch menu….

Chad chose the shrimp kabobs and I chose the chicken satay. A nap was in our near future after lunch.  Chad settled in for about an hour before he snuck out to fish. The afternoon lazily dragged along, both of us in happy places…. sleeping and fishing, respectively! I did attempt to fish a little later in the afternoon, but nothing would bite. As if we needed more food, delicious veggie quesadillas were brought as a late afternoon snack. The pico de gallo so fresh and fragrant. We decided to kayak around the island and took a toodle around for a bit, we wanted to see the other homes on the island. We clearly decided we have the best one, our view is the best for sunset and our villa is the most romantic.

Now about that sunset….

At sunset, Alex brought Mahattans and we settled in to see the the glory. The view was clear and we watched every color paint the sky. The last color, a burnt orange, kissed the sky and the night settled in on our island view.

At night, you can really see the stars here. The moon was a hazy crescent, allowing maximum starlight to permeate the night sky. You can see horizon to horizon here, as if you can feel the shape of the earth. Alex and Rick arrived to set up for dinner, making another romantic spot on the deck, complete with candles, torches and lanterns. Dinner started with a young pumpkin soup and fresh bread. We then had a shrimp two ways for our second course – coconut shrimp with black bean salsa and goat cheese stuffed shrimp on a bed of watermelon and asparagus with a pool of balsamic reduction. The combination, strange, but the taste – amazing. I chose for my main course a local lobster on a bed of risotto and grilled summer squash, while Chad chose the snapper on a bed of polenta. We decided to have dessert on the other side of the deck in the reclining chairs. Ricotta cheesecake with berries, chocolate covered strawberries, and a strawberry puff pastry with a berry cordial. These are the days, my friends! In good Marci/Chad fasion, we ended the night early, our luxurious bed awaiting.

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