Our first full day proved to be an exercise in decompression. For me, vacation is a complete separation from the mental juggernaut of work and stress. Coming to a place that requires little/no human interaction, copious amounts of good food and drink – along with a my very own dashing best friend/husband to share it all with – and a girl can start to get some relaxing done!
An early breakfast, complete with strong Café Bustelo coffee got the day started right in our kitchen. Right in front of our villa is Flamingo Lake, out first target to fish for the day. We packed up the fly rods, applied copious amounts of sunscreen, and headed to fish the flats of the lake. The lake has easy access along the shore, so we literally stepped out onto the flats and were fishing in minutes. The water was fairly still, but proved to produce no fish for catching – after some time casting and stalking, we decided to load up the car and head down the road. Where the lake narrows and moves out to sea, there looked to be some large barracuda. The water is so clear – you can see the fish even quite a few yards off! Chad almost connected with one, he was about to recast and the barracuda jumped out of the water at his fly! My attempts also were in vain – a barracuda also snapped a fly right off my line. By 11, the heat starts to set in, so we packed up the rods and headed back to the villa – a cold beer was in our near future.
The pool is super refreshing after a few hours of fishing. Once we got back, beer in hand, wading in the pool – we watched as the only other guests in the complex left – we officially have the entire place to ourselves! For one night at least, I believe others are arriving tomorrow. We really enjoy these places off the normal path – Turks and Caicos is definitely on the rise as a Caribbean destination. Hotels line the north shore of the island. I specifically chose Harbour Club Villas for its size and seclusion on the south side. There are no loud poolside bars, no all-night deejay party fests, no rat race – this place is a quiet gem amidst the slower side of Provincials.
After some cool down in the pool, we made lunch in the villa and then nestled in for a nap. During the hot hours of the day, it is best to siesta! The pool seemed the logical place to relax the remaining part of the afternoon. Barry, one of the owners, chatted with us for a long time about the history of the place. He and Marta have an amazing set up here, a real retirement plan to admire! Cocktail hour soon was upon us – a daily ritual for us! Chad and I covet the special time that is cocktail hour in our day. At home, we spend many cocktail hours talking through our day, our goals, sometimes politics, sometimes just laughs. Today’s ritual included a beautiful spread of treats, we brought out some goat cheese, pepper jack cheese, pork pate, and green olives. I also made some rum mango drinks – I blended fresh mango, light rum, milk, and ice into a fruity treat. My recipe turned out to be a better granita than a boat drink. So, we froze the concoction for a treat later in the week. Oh bother, instead of a mango drink, we had to have Turks Head beers and rum and cokes – the world is such a cruel place!
Right before sunset, Chad went out to fish the marina for a bit. I chose to keep the pool occupied and started reading a novel. At sunset, I joined Chad past the marina on the beach. It was amazing, on one side of the horizon was the setting sun, and on the other, a gorgeous full moon rising.
Evening was low key, we really wanted to get an early turn in so that we were fresh for our bone fishing charter in the morning. This place is beautiful and I am so thankful we are here!
We started our day bright and early today. Our flight was at 9:00am, so we met my parents at their house so that they could drop us off at the airport at around 6:30. After a smooth check in with the airline, we bumped in to my old pal Bill waiting to get through security. He was on his way out to a job in in San Francisco. He joined us for breakfast and we all caught up. Flight times grew near so we parted ways and Marci and I boarded our plan to Miami. We arrived in Miami after a short trip and had about a 2 hour layover. Marci and I enjoyed a salad and Bloody Mary at Shula’s while we waited to board the flight to Providenciales.
We boarded the flight to Providenciales, which was probably ¾ full. It seemed that many were headed down to a large wedding that was to be held at the Beaches report. Right before we started to taxi away from the gate, a gal a few rows up received a call from someone already on the island who said that Beaches had been quarantined due to a virus that had already shutdown another resort. This news got the plane full of people buzzing.
Marci and I had caught wind of the story about the virus the week prior on Trip Advisor, but we figured that we had waited this long to go on vacation, so we were going hell or high water. Since the Turks and Caicos are in the middle of the Caribbean and we were headed down in June, we had already bought travel insurance in case of a hurricane. This insurance also included a medevac out so, if the virus did strike us, we figured we could get out if we needed to. We had also made the choice to forgo the crowds and all-inclusive resorts for a more intimate alternative, the Harbour Villas. The Harbour Villas were on the opposite side of the island, and we figured we would probably be seeing more wildlife than people. That is more of our style.
We arrived at Providenciales, cleared customs, and met our rental car agent. I was a bit apprehensive about driving on the opposite side of the road before we arrived, but found that I took to it quite naturally. Marci on the other hand was not immediately comfortable, which got us both cracking up. She has only had to warn me one or twice… “OTHER SIDE!” The major highway is paved but you will not find a stoplight on the island. Instead you will find roundabouts of different sizes, which does take some getting used to when doing everything backwards. However, we quickly figured it out and made it safe and sound to Harbour Club Villas.
Upon arriving, we were quickly greeted with open arms by Marta and Barry, whom you immediately feel that you have known forever. They showed us to our villa, which is a quaint but rustic little home for the week. The villas are decorated in wicker and bamboo in island style. The view from the living room overlooks Flamingo Lake and there is a full sized kitchen. There is no central air in the villas but there is a small AC unit in the bedroom which will keep you cool at night. There are open storm shutters on the windows which allow the warm island breeze through the villa.
We chatted with Marta and Barry for quite some time and they showed us some prime fishing and private beach locations on the map. They then took us over to the pool area and showed us their little lady… a momma humming bird sitting on her little nest guarding two white eggs about the size of jelly beans. COOL! Barry also let us know that there are no drinking and driving laws on the island so to not be alarmed if we saw folks driving with a beer in their hand. This also meant it would probably be safer to not be on the roads too late.
One of the best ways to get a feel for a new place is to check out the markets, so after stopping by to pick up a couple of fishing licenses from the local marina, we went to the Wine Cellar (the local importer) to pick up some libations. Being an island nation, most everything is imported so you will find the prices to be quite high compared to the states. Imported beer, such as Coors or Miller lite will run you around $20 for a 6-pack… SERIOUSLY. Marci and I opted for the local beer, Turk’s Head which ran about $40 for the case. We also picked up some whiskey and rum, which in all honesty, was not priced too bad, and will last longer. Funny thing, they have cops stationed at the door of the liquor store – I wonder why?! After stocking up on the important stuff, we went to the IGA supermarket to pick up some food. The supermarket was packed, an eclectic mix of local families and tourists. The market had everything you could ever want – we were impressed with the selection. Beautiful fruit and vegetables, fresh breads, cheese, cold cuts, pâtés, meat, fish, etc so we stocked up for a few days of cooking in our nice villa kitchen.
After provisioning the house, it was time for cocktails and some exploring. We drove down the road about a mile from the villa and found a secluded beach to watch the sunset. It was a bit hazy, but very tranquil on the stretch of sand. Marci and I spent a few minutes saying how blessed we were to be here and what a great week was ahead.
When we go back to the villa, we decided to walk down to the marina to check out the view. We immediately met a group of salty dogs congregating at the dock sharing some fruit and drinking some beers. They were super friendly and invited us to sit down, who could resist? Two couples from Texas were sailing a catamaran from St. Marten back home and were only in for the night. The other couple was dive masters that worked out of the marina. We shared stories and laughed for quite some time, but Marci and I finally decided it was time for a dip in the pool and a late dinner. I fired up the grill around 9:00 I think and we celebrated our first night with a couple of rib-eyes and baked potatoes. It was a good first day of exploring the island and getting acclimated.
Marci and I paddled from Fred Howard Park to Anclote Key as part of our birthday extravaganza this year. The morning started out very overcast and we were afraid we would get rain. The paddle consisted of a 3 mile open water crossing, which was calm this monday morning. We arrived after about 45 minutes of paddling with a short break to do some fishing from the kayaks and found that we had the island all to ourselves! We took a brief walk to the lighthouse and found that the mosquitos were very hungry. Since we had not applied bugspray, the time spent at the lighthouse consisted of a quick picture and a much faster walk back to the beach.
After setting up a makeshift sun shelter, Marci found a happy spot to read her Kindle and I found a fishy looking spot by the dock to do some fly fishing… it’s what we do. 🙂 The overcast conditions meant great fishing in the morning and I caught several grunts and a nice sized trout.It seemed that the white on white clouser minnow tied on a size 2 hook with 5/32 dumbell eyes was the fly of choice today.
I also saw tarpon attacking bait and even a manatee right off shore. Marci spent her time reading “The Yearling” and was quite content reading and taking pictures of the sandpiper who had a home in the roots of a downed tree nearby.
The wind picked up and knocked down the tarp shelter while I continued casting in to the bait pods. Marci took it upon herself to rig up a much better shelter which was soon needed as the sun burned off the low lying clouds. With the high sun and tidal shift, the bite soon died down and I found myself ready for a beer and a dip in the cool water. We brought snorkeling gear, but found the area off the beach in front of the lighthouse to be pretty merky. We enjoyed a nice swim while watching sea gulls dive in to the bait pods.
We retreated from the sun under the shelter and had a wonderful lunch that consisted of chicken salad, cheese, crackers, jerky, and of course another beer. We figured it was around noon as we listened to the coast guard radio looking for a vessel that had made a Pan Pan call, a call that we did not originally hear. We decided to check the time and found it was actually around 3:00! Time flies when you are relaxing.
The breeze had died down as we started our crossing back to Fred Howard. It was blazing hot and Marci and I both kept dipping our hats in the water to try to keep cool. The paddle back seemed to take a while longer, but, we made it and decided to take a dip at the park before packing it all up and heading back to Innisbrook.
Today was our big day, the hot air balloon ride in Temecula! The guys from California Dreaming picked us up at about 5:00am at our villa and drove us over to the staging area. After the pilot launched a test helium balloon to find wind direction, we soon were driven back to South Coast Winery along with about 15-20 people as that would be the best launch site with current conditions.
Three hot air balloons were quickly prepared and inflated and we soon found ourselves buzzing the tree tops, just as the sun peaked over the mountains. Our Pilot Dave (the owner of both the balloon company and the winery in which we initially staged) was amazing. He brought us within feet of vineyards, floating right above the vines on the rolling hills, and then brought us to altitude for a serene view of the world below.
The experience was a lot different than Marci and I might have thought. The feeling of floating in a balloon is quite sedate and tranquil. I guess we have grown accustomed to the high speeds of jet setting and the turbulance that comes with trying to get from point ‘A’ to point ‘B’ as fast and efficiently as possible. Surprisingly, there is never really a feeling of falling, or even rising while flying in a balloon. It felt alot like you were standing on stable ground, just perched at one moment maybe 15 feet in the air, then before you even notice, you were at 3000 feet, looking out over vineyards, mountains, lakes, and valley, with no real feeling of transition. I would imagine even those with serious fears of heights would find this a life changing experience. While Marci and I have had a great time this week, I told her today that the balloon ride really took the cake.
I think the video really speaks for itself. What do you think?
After the balloon ride we were treated to a continental breakfast and were soon brought back to our villa. After packing up, we enjoyed a wine tasting at Falkner Winery followed by lunch at the Pinnacle restaurant. Marci had the Ahi burger and I had the Poblano Steak and Cheese. After lunch, we decided on one final wine tasting at the Cougar Winery before heading back to Manhattan Beach where I sit now writing this post. I believe it is time to mix up a Manhattan to enjoy on our final night here in beautiful California. Cheers!
Each year, Chad and I plan a special day for May 26. This is the day we met, and while our wedding anniversary will be important (we celebrate our first one this November!), we want to keep the tradition of Charci Day as a momentous occasion!
We headed to Temecula, a wine town located south of Manhattan Beach. Near San Diego, this sleepy town has a million family-owned wineries and a laid back atmosphere. I found a small resort online last month called South Coast, after much research on rates and deals, we settled on a visit for two days. The pinnacle of the event would be a hot air ballon ride. We checked in Wednesday afternoon and proceeded to start happy hour the moment we arrived (yes, I am a Hall (now Helenthal) girl!) Our villa was tucked in the rows of vines and we had a perfect view of the mountains in the distance and flowering grape vines on our villa porch.
After a few Manhattans and Cosmos, we decided to make our way to the tasting room at South Coast. We then sauntered (slowly….) to dinner at the restaurant. A tart French man was our waiter, and we immediately assumed, “Oh great, he will be immensely annoyed with us.” But, after we talked Tour de France and discussed our trip, he was immediately warm and helpful. We started with a 2005 Merlot from South Coast, their “Rolling Hills’ blend – it was rich and loaded with flavor. We had ceviche as an app, then headed into main courses of filet mignon and ribeye. Both were fantastic. We teetered home and crashed for the evening, super tired but really excited about Charci Day.
Failed to mention, the hot air balloon company called during our dinner and let us know one of the balloons was out of service. We could either reschedule to Friday or cancel. Since a hot air balloon ride is basically one of my top bucket list items, and it is super romantic, I wanted to still go. Even though it wouldn’t be ON Charci Day, we decided to go. Charci Day might not have a balloon ride in it, but we were making it a wine fest instead!!
Instead of getting up at 5 a.m. for the balloon ride, we got to sleep in! WINNING! We lounged for a few hours in our villa. We finally got a move on and headed to breakfast at the lodge. Chad had Eggs Benedict and me, Huevos Rancheros – mimosas included, of course! Since downtown Temecula was only a few minutes away, we decided to explore. The downtown is about 8 blocks of shops filled with antiques and interesting knick knacks. We did an olive oil tasting at the Temecula Olive Oil Company and bought quite e few bottles of vinegars, lotions, and soaps. The rest of the morning was spend tooling around the shops and sightseeing for interesting finds. I love old books and hoped to stumble on good condition classic hardbacks. Chad wanted antique fly fishing reels or fly boxes for his growing fishing collection. Mid-afternoon, we settled in at a cheese shop in a little corner on a back alley on Temecula. There, we ordered a cheese and meat platter, complete with olives, fresh fruit, organic almonds, brie, pecorino, goat cheese, and prosciutto. Flights of wine complimented the platter – we could not believe how fresh the almonds tasted – they were not processed, leaving them completely flavorful and pure tasting. The sun was out, the wind was breezy, the white wines were cold… we were in heaven!
After some more shopping, we headed to winery row back toward our resort. At the olive oil shop, a local recommended Hart Winery. Luckily, it was on the way home! We stopped in to an unassuming warehouse nestled on the side of a vine-covered mountain. We walked in to a winery in progress, the wine vats and packaging took the majority of the warehouse space, and tucked in the corner was a small tasting area for visitors. You could immediately tell this was a small vineyard with no frills. We pulled up to the tasting bar and started with their delicious wines. We each tried six wines. Before heading to Temecula, I had it in my mind we would be tasting primarily reds. But, this region produces nearly every type of wine you could imagine – over the course of this week – I swear I think we tried a dozen new types of wines that we have never experienced. Chad loved their port – it was chock full of berries and was sweet and served with a chocolate. I loved their (white) Roussane – it was peach and mango flavored, hinting a citrus note. The woman at Hart was lovely, she respected the winery and spoke highly of those who worked vineyards in the area. Another woman, who was visiting, was also interesting and knew a lot about the area. We came to find out she owned Cougar Winery, a few miles away – we promised to visit her on Friday.
Temecula is an eclectic group of wine people – they respect each other, are completely accommodating to visitors, but are equally unassuming and laid back about what they do. It is not a hard sell to love their wine – instead, they invite you to enjoy and decide for yourself.
Next, we headed to Lionesse Winery, we heard they had the best view from their tasting room in Temecula. A short drive brought us to this gorgeous spread atop the mountain. Indeed, the view was breathtaking – the mountains coupled with the rolling hillsides of vines created a Tuscan feel. We (again) pulled up the tasting bar at Leonesse for 6 more! At Lionesse, we preferred their Roussane as well. The Meritage (red) was also delicious. To end the tasting, the beautiful server offered us chocolate truffles with our port. WOW! The sweet flavors of chocolate and berry was outstanding – I don’t know if I have ever tasted something that decadent! Knowing we had tasted 18 wines at this point, we found it necessary to get back to South Coast before we tried any more! But hey, once we got there, we thought, better do some tastings at South Coast! Chad’s best line of the day, “We are getting drunk… one ounce at a time!”
After a quick break at the villa, we headed to South Coast’s tasting room. Since this was open until 6, a lot of those making their rounds get to South Coast last, as it is open an extra hour (most close at 5). The ambiance at South Coast was much more frenzied, there were a ton of people and the tasting bar was packed. We tried 6 more (yes, that brings our tasting total to 24!) – and marginally enjoyed the Meritage. They also had a blend called Group Therapy (great name) that Chad enjoyed.
Since we felt strongly that staying away from a car was wise, we ventured to the lodge restaurant another night. Phillippe was our waiter again, making it special. We decided to surf, not turf tonight. Chad had the Frutti de Mare, a pink pasta dish with mussels, clams, scallops, shrimp and while fish. I had the Lobster ravioli. Both were cooked perfectly and hearty!
Being that we had to be ready for our balloon ride at 5AM, we headed in for an early night after dinner.
All said, Charci Day was one for the ages. Finding someone to live your life with is special, but finding someone you share common interests with is over the moon! Chad and I love cycling, traveling, wine – we are always up for an adventure. We will try anything and love to experience new things together. This was the first big trip for us since we got married – I feel infinitely blessed to have someone that cares for me and loves a good adventure with me. Chad is my heart and I cannot begin to count our blessings together – we always make our time together special and we make a point to celebrate our life together every day. But today, Charci Day, celebrates the day two good people decided to make a go of it – and I could not feel more loved and blessed on this day.
<Chad> Today is our last day in Cayo Espanto and I would be lieing if I said that we are not a little sad. The mood has been just slighly more somber than previous days. The silence between conversations has been just a bit longer, the gazes at the water, horizon, and each other, just a bit more focused.
We got started EARLY this morning, almost subconsiously, to take advantage at every waking moment of the day. I caught two bonefish by 7:00am, much to the chagrin of the other early fisherman, I had found the school and laid stake to the dock to cast ever so precisely, slowing down to really relish every moment of it. I had a goal of landing two today to make a total of twelve for the week. So after my second catch I left the dock for the next guy… a guy with more time than I left on the island. I’m not sure that he caught anything, I am also not sure why that brings a smile to my face.
<Marci> Since the wind was so calm, we wanted to do a beautiful morning kayak ride. We set sail about 7:30AM with the morning just beginning. We do this often at home to beat the morning heat, but had not taken the opportunity to have a morning kayak trip yet. Today, the breeze was perfection, we really savored the salty air and the quiet reflection on the water. Since the island is only four acres, our trip was fairly short. We pulled around the last leg of our journey to see Casa Solana, our home for the past week. What a great place!
We decided to order our favorite breakfast from this week, we both chose the eggs benedict. As Alex cleared the table, he told me that any recipe we wanted, he would let the chef know – and Richard would make a copy. I certainly wanted that Hollandaise sauce for the eggs benedict, it was fantastic. With breakfast cleared and a whole day at our disposal, Chad quickly set to fishing and I to reading. I kept peering over my book to check out the view – the sun was starting to rise and the day was certainly set to be a perfect one.
<Chad> After breakfast I found my way out on to the flats, chasing glints. I found some of my little friends relatively quickly, made a backcast up wind and connected with another little 1-2 pounder, that makes three for the day… lucky thirteen. The heat was really crankin’ up on the day and the sun was probably the most intense it had been all week. I needed to shelter my sun soaked skin. I came back to the house where Marci was having so much fun finishing the entry for day six, totally cracking herself up. I love that laugh, the one that she has when she is laughing so hard she starts crying. You just can’t help but feel happy when you hear that.
I found shelter from the sun in a shady spot under the umbrella and polished off a Belikin… at 10:30am. I studied Marci’s sweet face, unbenounced to her, as she quietly typed. I said a little prayer to thank God for my wonderful wife and this awesome final day of our honeymoon. My eyelids got heavy and I almost fell asleep right there but, told myself to get up and enjoy every minute of the day.
<Marci> I finished my log of day 6 and looked over to find Chad almost asleep on the lounger. I took a pic without him knowing….
We read the story together and both got to laughing about all our crazy adventures together. Chad loves it when I read to him, and I could barely keep it together as I read to him. I cry at the slightest bit of emotion, happy or sad. This cry was happy, but also a bit nostalgic – we were recounting our days together and there were many stories to tell.
Lunch came a bit later, it was a huge Club with handmade chips. We were in heaven. Those darned Wave drinks will put you in a mood, we both landed on the backside of lunch with a bit of a buzz. James Taylor was playing in the background. We made a pact yesterday that each time, “Something in the Way She Moves,” plays, we have to dance to it. Well, right in the middle of lunch, we dropped our sandwiches and had a twirl on the deck. Chad makes me laugh, we really do have a good time together.
<Chad> Actually, we danced once to “Something in the Way She Moves” before lunch. Then, because the CD was on loop, stood up from our lunch when it played a second time. We are doing pretty well with our pact.
After lunch we had a dip in the pool, I soon spotted a school of bones and was back at it. Sunburn be damned, I’m going in! The wind had all but died, so I sweat to death in my long sleeve shirt. Suncreen burning my eyes, I slowly stalked the school. It took about 20 minutes to finally postion myself upwind of the school to make the cast. The school was spooky, scattering with even a glimpse of the fly line. After several tries, I landed my fourth of the day, totaling 14 for the week.
The sun was relentless. Marci was still quite happy in the pool, nice and cool with an umbrella shading her. Back to the pool for me for a beer and my bird. Fishing is fun, snuggling is better.
<Marci> As I watched Chad stalking his beloved bones, I noticed I was closing in on the end of Condoleezza Rice’s biography. Two books in one week – have not accomplished that since I was a kid in the summer! I, too, was attempting to dodge the blasted sun. My skin has had enough – my arms are roasted and toasted! Chad and I spent some time in the pool together, enjoying the view and taking in our last day. By about 3PM, my skin was cooked, so I headed for the shower. Chad headed for the dock to stalk a barraccuda, intent on using his popping cork to catch one of those ugly little rascals. No avail, but I did watch him cast for a while, really enjoying his progress this week.
Once I was showered and clean, I started to pack our things. Since we packed so light for this trip, it really didn’t take too long! Chad came back in and broke down all the fishing equipment, then showered and packed. We were all ready to settle in for our last sunset on the beach.
<Chad> The sunset was simply stunning tonight, as if to wish us off with one last glorious orange kiss. This place is magical, full of adventure and romance. Marci and I talked yesterday about the experience of snorkling on the world’s second largest barrier reef. The amazing feeling of “flying” over this rich stock of diversity and life. We both agreed that it was a humbling experience and it really makes you think about how there has to be something bigger out there. Tonight as I watched the sun, as big as I have ever seen it, sink below the horizon, I thought about the same thing.
Alex and Rick delivered cocktails along with shrimp cocktail, and Chef Richard brought the dinner menu. Lobster Ravioli for Marci and Cashew Crusted Snapper for me. As we enjoyed the happy hour, we decided to sit down and document our final day in Cayo Espanto. Creating a journal of this trip has been very fun and we have enjoyed sitting down at cocktail hour to do so most evenings. Marci and I both agree that it is something we want to continue even when we get back home.
<Marci> Dinner was set at 7 sharp, Alex led us to a magrove tree filled with twinkle lights and lanterns. A beautiful table was set under the stars for us. Alex asked if we wanted champagne, since we had not ordered it all week and it was part of the honeymoon package. We, of course, said yes! Alex took a great picutre of us at our candlight dinner together.
We spent the evening laughing and talking about our week together. We also seemed to fall into the everyday conversation of our neighbors, our families, and the ordinary things we discuss on a regular weeknight at home. We were starting to transition our minds back to the real world. The tortilla soup was fantasic – we both commented on the quality of soups all week and I vowed the winter, more soup for us in our meals! We had a garden salad, then sat back to enjoy some of our champagne. The light breeze, the bubbly champagne, the great love sitting next to me, what heaven! Alex and Ric then brought out main courses, we both savored each bite. The ravioli was hand made and was topped with two lobster tails. Chad’s snapper was encrusted with cashews, we both decided that would be a great addition to our weekly fish recipes. For dessert, my favorite, KEY LIME PIE! The chef prepared a mini key lime pie topped with piped merangue, a mini key lime souffle, and a key lime shooter of margarita. The shot was set in frozen ice, it was so cool!
Dinner came to an end, we took last sips of champagne and thanked Alex for his hard work this week. We were given a guest book to sign and a survey to complete as we left the candlelight dinner. We walked along the dimly lit trail back to our villa and both started to get a little sad. What a week! What an experience! We readied for bed and called it an early evening. As we lie in bed, Chad and I talked about the week more and how much fun we had. This week was MAGICAL!
DEBARKATION
<Chad> We woke up early Monday morning and packed up our remaining things. Marci and I walked out to the end of the dock as the sun just started to rise up over the tree tops. The school of bonefish that were so easily found at the end of that dock were curiously absent this morning, nowhere to be found, as if to NOT tempt me to unpack the fly rod. We ordered Eggs Benedict for breakfast, it was our favorite of the week and seemed right for our final meal on the island. As breakfast was cleared, we settled our bill and spent the remaining hour just looking out at the amazing view. The last hour seemed to drag by, we knew what was ahead. At about 8:45, my little friends appeared en masse. Four to five hundred bones lined up no more than 30 feet from our house, as if to bid us farewell.
Marci and I talked about how it felt like we were saying goodbye to an old friend. As Alex and Ric accomponied us to the dock where our boat waited, the entire staff lined up on the dock to say goodbye. Such class! While it was very difficult to say goodbye to our magical island, I told Marci, I was not sad that I was leaving because I was taking the best part of the trip home with me, my wife.
<Marci> Honeymoon of the ages, I must say. You cannot top that one, it was one for the books. Well, how about one for the blogs.
We head back to Orlando as Mr. and Mrs. Helenthal, two peas in a happy little pod. To soften the blow, we have already planned a kayak trip this Saturday…. fly rods included. : )
Today is our snorkel to Hol Chan and Shark Ray Alley. The water is a bit choppy, but the wind is down considerably from yesterday.
We awoke to breakfast tacos. Now, these things were hearty, chock full of chorizo and eggs. We sat on the deck and started getting excited about the day ahead. Chad has snorkeled all over the Caribbean on various sailing trips. I have also been on family vacations to the Abacos Island in the Bahamas. Chad and I also went snorkeling a few years ago in Punta Gorda in southern Belize. These experiences were about to be shadows of one of the coolest days in our lives together.
To digress, Chad was also pumped this morning, as he caught a bonefish BEFORE breakfast. It was 7:30AM and Chad is yelling, “I caught one.” He is like a kid in a candy store here. The fish are right off our dock and are just waiting to wrestle.
We head out to Hol Chan with our guides, Victor and Eddie. It is off the southern coast of Ambergris Cay and about 15 minutes by boat from our dock. Hol Chan is a Belizean national reserve – no fishing and the diving is tightly restricted. It is located in the middle of the ocean where a large barrier forms off the coast. Here, it becomes very shallow and you can see occasional forms of coral poking from the water. We tied up to one of the boat “parking buoys,” put on our snorkels and fins, and headed into a colorful and unforgettable hour.
Victor escorted us, pointing to the various corals, fish, and other sea life. We saw an array of damsel fish, tangs, jacks, groupers (huge!), tarpon, eagle rays and sting rays, puffers, moray eels, green turtles, wrasse, barracuda, angels and snapper. For coral, we saw fire, branch, brain, sea fans, kitchen tables, and anemone. Victor was so knowledgeable about the fish and corals, he even took us across a very shallow area that most snorkelers did not go through – there were other groups out in the water, but this special tour of the shallows really took us off the tourist path. Toward the end, we headed to see a green turtle, he was feeding – it was such a great experience to see it a few feet away from us!
We raced the boat to Shark Ray Alley next. Now, I may not be the brightest bulb in pack, but it only dawned on me as we were headed to SHARK RAY ALLEY that we would be swimming with….. wait for it……. SHARKS! I started to get a little panicky, not sure how I was going to weasel my way out of this part on the trip. Nonetheless, we sped along to my impending doom.
Sharks are a scary bunch. But, luckily, I started thinking about the movie Strange Wilderness and got a little laugh.
We arrived at the alley and yes, to my suprise, there were a shit ton of sharks. Not just a few… A LOT. To exacerbate the concern, Eddie our driver started throwing chum into the water. The sharks went nuts. They were eating the chummy treats, just like they would be eating one on my fingers in just a moment. We all watched in amazement (and a little horror) at the feeding frenzy, when I asked, “are we really going in that?” Victor coolly said, “of course, ladies first.” While I am not one to get uppity about being treated like a lady, this was one time I really wished I could be second. I strapped on my fins and mask and for some ridiculous reason, decided to jump in the water. As I landed in the choppy water, I took in about a gallon of sea water through my snorkel and came up coughing and wishing for air. Panic – check. Sharks – check. No air – check. swirling water – check. I was doomed.
Chad, in what seemed like an eternity, got into the water with me. After clearing my lungs and trying to relax, I put my mask in the water to survey my surroundings. There were three nurse sharks about 5 feet from me, a ton of other fish trying to score a snack, and to my suprise, Eddie was STILL throwing chum in the water. Next, Victor swam right to one of the nurse sharks and hugged it, then gently coaxed it over to us. Chad willingly touched the scary thing, but I politely declined, as the music from Jaws played in my head.
We headed out to the reef and took in another spectacle of color and life. At times, I felt as if I was watching a PBS special on the most beautiful coral in the world, only to pinch myself and realize I was not dreaming. Victor also coaxed over a sting ray (barb still intact, mind you) to visit us as well. I did actually pet the sting ray, as for some reason a barb did not seem as deadly as shark teeth. As we traveled over the reef, we saw schools of fish swim in circular patterns together to create a tight ball of life. Hundreds of them would tightly swim in unison to create the shape, then one would break and the entire group would fall out of the circle and get in a lock step march in a line. They worked in one mind – it was very interesting to watch.
As we headed back to the boat, I noticed the boys start to swim really fast away from something. I could not see a shark, so I was baffled. I popped my head out of the water and asked Chad, he said, “just move.” Apparently, there was a box jellyfish that swam about two feet from Victor’s face. These are HIGHLY poisonous, and if their tentacle even lightly touches your skin, you can be in agonizing, burning pain for weeks with no relief. Luckily, we moved away and got closer to the boat. As we neared the boat, we noticed the cattle call excursions were arriving for the day. The boats were loaded with scores of people, ready to snorkel. We had been in the alley, up to this time, practically alone, but now, the masses were arriving to play. Victor insisted I touch a shark, so he found a little one and brought it over for me to touch. I, begrudgingly, touched the sharks tail. It felt like sand paper, it was not what I expected. We soon loaded the boat, had a beer, then headed back to our island.
We had a beautiful lunch right on the beach near our villa. I had an Asian salad with peanuts and chicken, Chad had a fish sandwich that was served open-faced with plantains on the side. After lunch, I had a great idea that I wanted to have a fishing competition with Chad. Being a competitive person, this always sounds better in my head than the reality of what happens. I was going to battle the kid who has been practicing all week, while I sunbathed and read on the sideline. Hmmm, not a good match up.
Nonetheless, we decided stalking the bonefish was better than blind casting, so I set out into the shallows with my rod and Chad stayed on shore to spot the fish. On about the third cast, I had a fish on, but I lost it in the final feet when I let slack occur in the line. Blasted, I did not land one. I had a few other nibbles, but no serious takers. The sun, the beers, and the afternoon started making me want to head back to that beach. Chad and I switched, so I spotted for him on the shore, much happier with a beer in my hand. He is getting really good at fishing, even during these few days, he has imporved immensely in his casting and accuracy to land the fly. And, he is just so freaking adorable when he catches a fish – his eyes light up and you can tell it is really exciting for him.
We decided to finally shower and get cleaned up for the evening. We had a lot of sun and were both pretty salty, sandy, and smelly. But, thank goodness, we clean up good!
For cocktail hour, we decided to change it up a bit and have wine and cheese. We ordered a bottle of Merlot and Alex brought us a plate of beautiful cheeses, fruits and crackers. Some of the cheese was really tasty, for instance the smoked gouda and the cheddar. But then, we also had some of the stinkiest cheese ever found on earth. Now we love cheese, and we have tasted some pretty rank cheeses when we went to Berlin last year. Cheese outside of the Unites States is unpasteurized, so when you have the opporunity to eat real cheese, it is a treat. Now, there was one cheese on our tray that, literally, smelled like dirty socks. I called it the track meet cheese. Chad took a whole bite of it (including the soft rind) and then proceeded to have a sip of wine. He recoiled back, saying it was like a puff of ammonia in his nose. I, then of course, had to try it to. Track meet cheese held up as the stinkiest cheese of the night for sure. We also played one of Chad’s podcasts through the speakers in the house and danced a little. This is when I know he is a good man, he dances with me even when we are alone.
Dinner was set right off the beach of our house in the same location as lunch. Alex even put a message in the sand, “Chad loves Marci.”
With the wind down considerably, we had a quiet evening of laughter and fun. Someone across the island was playing some pretty terrible music, so we kept making fun of their horrible taste in pop music. By the endof dinner, it was apparent I had gotten a bit too much sun today, so I asked Alex for some aloe. Chad and I retreated back to the house. I covered myself in solarcaine and aloe, and walked out ready to go to bed. I, clearly, was looking super hot in my pajamas and three coats of aloe goo. These, boys and girls, are the true romantic moments in life.
In true old married couple fashion, we curled up in bed, I reading my Rice biography, and Chad, his fly fishing magazine. In one short week, we had arrived at that old married couple status, reading silently in bed. We both got laughing about it, but were both so tired that we didn’t really do anything to change it – we just laid there quietly and enjoyed being snuggled next to one another.
I can truly say that this was one of my favorite days in my life. The snorkeling experience with Chad ranks as one of our best adventures yet. We have had so many this far, roller coaster birthdays, Wekiva kayak picnics with a bottle of St. Francis, mountain biking through Snow Hill (and actually not killing myself on one of the turns), dancing til dawn at Panorama in Berlin, getting dressed up and eating at Chicago Chop House, camping in Geneva and catching bass, our engagement cruise to the Bahamas, our kayak trips to Satellite, wine and cheese on the balcony at our loft in Berlin, biking Berlin, cycling the MS150, air boat rides across the swamps, Gator parties with our family and friends, thousands of hours on our back porch contemplating the world and how it would run smoother if we just ran it, morning snuggle time on a Saturday.. all adventures in thier own right. And even this most recent adventure – our wedding day – this one is my favorite now. Chad and I have chosen to start a life as one, I cannot begin to thank God enough for this blessing in my life.
Marci and I have done pretty well with alternating adventurous days and relaxation days. Neither of us felt the need to completely fill each and every day with activities but rather, made sure that we would take some time to slow down, read, fish, sun, eat, and just spend some quiet time together in this magical place.
This morning we slept in… sort of… and woke up at 8:30 or so. A quick call to Alex and coffee and eggs benedict were delivered. The Hollandaise sauce was probably, no scratch that, DEFINITELY the best I have ever had. Marci agreed that this morning’s breakfast was the best so far. The weather is a bit overcast with a 5-10mph wind, the temperature so pleasant.
After finishing breakfast, Marci and I talked about our goals for the day. Marci’s goal… finish her book and start another (Condoleezza Rice’s biography) and get a massage. My goal, catch a barracuda on 12lb leader with a topwater popper and get a massage. Marci soon returned to her book and I to my fly rod. I decided to stalk the flats this morning. Seeing fish while wading in windy water is a challenge but my patience paid off. I happened on to a small school of bonefish about 100 yards from our house. I started casting a Gold Charlie and soon hooked up… doh, he slipped the line. Another cast or two and same thing, a hook up and a slip off. One more cast and I found my mark, then POP… the barracuda had cut my line and was rewarded with some jewelry in his face. Maybe I’ll get him with that popper later today and get my fly back.
I ran back to the house and tied on about 4 more feet of tippet along with another Gold Charlie. Thirteen feet seems to be the magic number here. A few casts later and I had my first Cayo Espanto Bonefish! While Marci and I had both caught bones with Mark this week, there is something so rewarding about stalking, finding, and catching your own little friend as I have started calling them. Marci got a pic of my friend.
Soon after I talked Marci’s ear off about what an amazing and spiritual experience it has been to learn to fly fish and catch the mighty bone on said fly, Brenda the masseuse arrived. Marci was up first. I was back to the catch… I had found a school of bones after all. As I gazed back in to the house at my beautiful bird, relaxing, getting her massage, I continued to cast to the school. Another hit… a scream of the drag, and several minutes of honest to goodness fight, another little bonefish was sent on his merry way. I was glowing with satisfaction, two bones today on my own. I decided to take a little pic of Marci in her happy place and then return to my fishing.
When I returned to the dock, it seemed the school had doubled, maybe tripled in size. There was a rainbow of flashes as the sun finally peaked from behind the clouds. This was like taking candy from a baby, so I thought. Several casts later and I felt that familiar “thud” on my line followed by serious weight. The loose fly line at my feet burned through my hand at lightning speed… that will leave a mark. Before I knew it, this little friend had stripped all of my fly line and about half of my backing. I started to play the fish, or maybe it was the fish that played me. Run after run had me hooting and hollering. Three, now four runs this bone had made stipping line to the backing, this was not the kind of fight I had with the 1-2 pounders. After 20 minutes of solid fight, running, reeling, jumping off the dock, running around the island, jumping back on the dock, then off, then to the other side of the helicopter pad, I met my little friend. Luckily I had the camera for a self portrait. Now I understand the allure of the mighty bonefish.
An hour had passed and Marci’s massage was over. I was not sure what to do. Should I leave the mighty school? Will they be there when I come back? What should I do? I showered and laid down on that massage table is what I did. Brenda has healing hands after all! An hour of complete and total relaxation as I basked in my fishing glory. When I awoke it was time for lunch. Marci and I both chose the Ceviche and Shrimp Quesadillas today. We usually try to order something different so we can try multiple dishes. Not today though. There was no way we were ordering anything different than the ceviche. It was a great decision as this was the best lunch so far. A HUGE portion of shrimp and Spiny Lobster Ceviche, Shrimp Quesadillas, and fresh corn tortilla chips. Wow what a lunch! A couple of Waves to wash it down and then it was time for Marci to feed the bonefish craving.
Marci grabbed her rod and started to wade. The wind had picked up so I decided to stay up by the house on high ground to help spot the school for her. Soon enough, we spotted part of the school about 40 ft from her. Marci false casts several times with the wind at her back and shoots the line 35 ft or so. Strip, strip… she has a fish on… doh, he slipped off. The school does not move. Several casts later, she is on again then dangit… he slips again. The school moves, Marci adjusts several steps upwind, then forward to the school. She casts again and wammo, she’s got one. After several minutes of playing the fish she lands her first Cayo Espanto Bonefish… all by her “selfing!” I love to fish, I love to catch even more, but I must say, I absolutely love to see Marci land a fish, it just makes me so proud. She is quite the natural!
For happy hour tonight we both started with dirty martinis. That got things started and before we knew it, old episodes of the Chill with the Chola podcast played on the stereo and we danced to bossas and sambas. For dinner Marci chose the Cornish Game Hen and I the Mahi Mahi. Both were quite satisfactory and, we ended the evening with a Chocolate Trio featuring a lava cake, chocolate souffle, and chocolate strawberries.
It has been a wonderful day full of relaxation and impromptu adventure with the fly rod.We spent quite a bit of time talking about how wonderful it is to be together and that it is rare that we get to spend a full week by each other’s side.We think the idea of the honeymoon is quite brilliant. You get to experience one of the most important days of your lives together, your wedding day, and then take a week to really start nurturing that loving union. We highly recommend it! 🙂
Marci did finish her book and start another. I did not get that barracuda on topwater but what I did get was, an amazing day with my wife that I will not soon forget. BTW, Marci has been quite enamored with my left hand since last Saturday. So here is a nice close up…
Early morning start on day two of paradise. We decided a half-day fishing charter for bone would start this week off right. We awoke at 6AM to Alex on the walkie talkie asking what we would like for breakfast. To digress, all we must do if we want something is pick up the walkie-talkie, and Alex is on the other end. Beer, coffee, snacks, towels…. just talk into the happy walkie talkie! Note to self, taking Alex (and walkie talkie) home with us! But I digressed…
After a light breakfast of local fruits and fresh croissants, we put on our swimmies and headed out for fishing. Alex escorted us across the island to a dock where we met our local guide, Mark. A short man of Mayan descent, Mark’s easy smile and quick wit charmed us immediatly. Chad’s first question, “Are you a patient man, Mark?!” He laughed at us, nodded yes, and the day got off to a perfect start.
We headed out on Mark’s flats boat, called “Baby Ruth,” across a gorgeous flat of aquamarine water. Mark knew of a school of bonefish in a secluded cove area surrounded in part by mangroves. The wind was still in our disadvantage, so he wanted to find a sheltered spot we could avoid the wind and still catch a ton of bones. The trip was magnificent, flats all the way, clear water to the floor, greens and blues mixed with salty water and overcast sun – we were in for a day of fishing delight.
After our short trek over the flats, we headed toward the mangroves and into a wide channel. On one spit of mangroves, you could see the encroachment of civilization, a set of powerlines – something totally out of the ordinary in this lush tropical environment. While this area is clearly untouched by modernity, there are small realities that this land will soon be inhabited be part of a tourist Mecca. We arrived at a perfect time – a sleepy island and a pristine landscape still untouched.
Bonefish we found – Mark set us on a school of over a thousand bones. He cut off the engine and used a long wading pole to push us around the cut away of mangroves. We followed the fish and began casting to the gigantic school. While our casting was a little less than desirable, Mark was indeed patient and began to teach us how to land a silver beauty. Chad was first up of on this day, catching his first bonefish. I could tell, he was so excited, this was a moment he would savor forever – his first fish on a fly rod. Then, it was my turn. While Chad has been diligently practicing his casts over the past weeks and has been a true student of the craft, I, on the other hand, am quite, “here for the ride.” Mark could tell I just wanted the thrill of the catch, so after a few attempts of my casts, he took the rod and landed it into the school. He handed me the rod and…. BAM…. fish on!
I screamed like a little kid, and Mark shouting, “let go,” as I attempted to treat the bone fish like a bass, fighting it all the way. With bonefish, you let them run out your reel, so as to tire them out. With great pride, Mark pulled the bone out of the water and handed the fish to me. I, in perfect girly fashion, proceeded to hold it for a second, then allowed the fish to shoot out of my hands and go careening across the boat! Poor fish! Mind you, I caught two fish today, both of which went sailing across the boat because I did not have a tight grip! Chad and I caught two fish each, it was a glorious day and I could tell a highlight of this trip for Chad.
Mark took us back to our dock and we were greeted by Ester. Lunch menu….
Chad chose the shrimp kabobs and I chose the chicken satay. A nap was in our near future after lunch. Chad settled in for about an hour before he snuck out to fish. The afternoon lazily dragged along, both of us in happy places…. sleeping and fishing, respectively! I did attempt to fish a little later in the afternoon, but nothing would bite. As if we needed more food, delicious veggie quesadillas were brought as a late afternoon snack. The pico de gallo so fresh and fragrant. We decided to kayak around the island and took a toodle around for a bit, we wanted to see the other homes on the island. We clearly decided we have the best one, our view is the best for sunset and our villa is the most romantic.
Now about that sunset….
At sunset, Alex brought Mahattans and we settled in to see the the glory. The view was clear and we watched every color paint the sky. The last color, a burnt orange, kissed the sky and the night settled in on our island view.
At night, you can really see the stars here. The moon was a hazy crescent, allowing maximum starlight to permeate the night sky. You can see horizon to horizon here, as if you can feel the shape of the earth. Alex and Rick arrived to set up for dinner, making another romantic spot on the deck, complete with candles, torches and lanterns. Dinner started with a young pumpkin soup and fresh bread. We then had a shrimp two ways for our second course – coconut shrimp with black bean salsa and goat cheese stuffed shrimp on a bed of watermelon and asparagus with a pool of balsamic reduction. The combination, strange, but the taste – amazing. I chose for my main course a local lobster on a bed of risotto and grilled summer squash, while Chad chose the snapper on a bed of polenta. We decided to have dessert on the other side of the deck in the reclining chairs. Ricotta cheesecake with berries, chocolate covered strawberries, and a strawberry puff pastry with a berry cordial. These are the days, my friends! In good Marci/Chad fasion, we ended the night early, our luxurious bed awaiting.
We have arrived at Cayo Espanto! After a quick flight to Miami, we boarded our first class flight to Belize City where we enjoyed cocktails and a wonderful Filet Mignon lunch. I highly recommend the upgrade to first class!
In Belize City, we landed in the tiny airport, reminiscent of Casablanca airstrip circa 1950s. After a short break, we boarded a Maya Air flight to San Pedro, a short puddle hop from the main land. Marci had never flown in a single prop, 10-12 seater before, so we had to get a picture and some video of her first trip.
Marci sat right behind the pilot and I sat behind the interestingly enough, empty co-pilot seat which rewarded me with a prime location to shoot some high def video of the islands and our crosswind, rudder heavy, landing. We shared the flight with two Aussies, who were instantly interested in our honeymoon status. They reminded me of a couple that had seen quite a bit of life, and had enjoyed it thoroughly. They went on about the untouched character and the great authenticity of San Pedro. The flight was very smooth and the scenery was beautiful.
We were met at the airport by Alex, our wonderful houseman, a quiet and reverent fellow. His attention to detail, as we have quickly learned, makes him perfect for this job. He is always listening, picking up on subtle details, then translating them into special moments. Also at the dock was German, the dive guide. We loaded the boat and set sail to our perfect tropical private island.
The wind was definitely up today so, after a bumpy ten minute ride, we arrived at Cayo Espanto where the entire staff was lined up on the dock to introduce themselves and greet us. We enjoyed a Cayo Espanto Wave, the island’s signature drink. The color of this perfect drink matches the aquamarine water around the island. Ester, the manager of the island, accompanied us on a short walk to Casa Solana, the honeymoon suite. Our walk took us down a beautiful path of well manicured, raked sand, decorated with lovely pictures of palms, flowers, and hearts etched in the sand. Every detail centers around attention to beauty and elegance.
Casa Solana is absolutely lovely. A quaint building with a large bedroom, high ceilings, a small den, and a single bath sits a top a raised deck. It is surrounded on two sides by the most interesting aqua-colored water I think I have ever seen. Not quite the rich blue of the Caribbean nor the deep greens of Mexicanwaters, but, a gin clear, sparkling aqua. A freshwater infinity plunge pool sits outside of the main doors looking out to the ocean. The tile color in the pool creates the infinity effect perfectly, it is as if you could step off into the ocean!
The water is quite cold for such a little pool, but, is nice and refreshing in the afternoon sun. Thankfully, the ocean water is warmer, so a mini dip is in our near future. Extending from the beach is a two to three foot flat of clear ocean water for what seems to be miles around the island. This depth is perfect for wading out and fly fishing. Needle fish, bonefish, and barracuda are within clear eyesight of the villa. I am in heaven!
We were greeted at Casa Solana with delicious quesadillas… not that we really needed them after polishing off a filet lunch on the airplane, but hey… this is a vacation! They were covered in fresh pico de gallo and sour cream, two of the most perfect foods on earth! After we had finished our tasty snack, we were quickly offered the lunch menu, not the we needed lunch after a filet lunch on the plane and a quesadilla snack… but hey, this isn’t just a vacation… IT’S A HONEYMOON!
For lunch, Marci had the Key Lime shrimp salad and I had the chicken avocado Club sandwich. Marci’s salad was covered in chargrilled shrimp and ripe avocados. My sandwich was also made with avocados and crispy bacon, and was served with a fresh salad. While the salad was not Marci’s favorite, her shrimp were OUTSTANDING! As for my club sandwich, while I have tasted many a club in my life, was one of the best! For dessert, we had bananas foster with rum ice cream, a perfect ending to our first meal on the island!
After lunch, we both spent time fishing with spinning tackle around the house. The wind was too high on this overcast day to bring out the fly outfits. Marci soon tired of casting the small yellow jig and fell victim to the alluring song of the soft, white, down covered, siren in our bedroom. Nap time is something that will be prescribed and taken daily for the duration of our stay. I soon followed and nodded off for 45 minutes or so until I noticed the wind died down. I quietly hopped out of bed and ran off to the long dock next to the house, leaving Marci still sleeping deeply.
I did cast the fly rod a bit but, found the wind still made it too difficult to get anywhere accurately. I decided to switch back over to spinning tackle and within a few minutes, landed my first barracuda. Fierce buggers those barracudas. They seem to come from nowhere at warp speed, attack the lure violently, and then run as hard as they can in the opposite direction. I was so excited, I ran back to the house with my catch and woke Marci with a mighty “BIRD, it’s a BARRACUDA!” Marci was in such a deep sleep, I am not sure that she thought it was real, or something in a dream so she just laid back down. I said, “Hey birdy, grab the camera, I got a barracuda.” This time, she begrudgingly got up and snapped this pic before laying back down…
I caught another one shortly after, I decided not to wake her for that one! 🙂
As the 5:00 hour hit, cocktails started to call our names. Now don’t get me wrong, we had several Cayo Espanto Waves throughout the day as well as plenty of beer from our well stocked fridge. But you see, in the Helenthal household, the cocktail hour is a tradition. About the time we had decided exactly what we wanted, Alex rounded the corner carrying two vodka sodas with fresh local lime… it is like magic here, I think they can read your mind. With Alex was Chef Richard, ready to discuss the evening’s menu. Marci’s choice, the Jerked Shrimp, served atop a bed of curried couscous. My choice, the Plank Grilled Red Snapper served on a bed of white wine and parmesan risotto. After a couple of Vodka sodas and then a couple of Manhattans, Marci decided to pop in our Wedding CD, and we worked up an appetite dancing by moonlight in our private paradise.
We decided on a late dinner and at 8:00. We were greeted by Alex, our houseman, and Rick, his second, in formal dinner service attire. During our first course, Alex arranged a Mariachi singer to serenade us by moonlight. The first course was a black bean puree with cumin, garlic, and onion. The second course, a trio of ceviche. My god… the ceviche was one of the finest I have had. Conch, spiney lobster, and shrimp… each served in a different style and flavor. The favorite, hands down… the shrimp ceviche as it was served with fresh coconut and lime. WOW! The main course was one of the best meals both of us have ever had. That says a lot as we are definitely foodies, and, foodies that cook! The snapper was plank grilled with a light seasoning, the natural flavor of the snapper in perfect balance with the smokiness of the grill. Marci’s shrimp were also grilled, holding a charred and spicy note. For dessert, the “Choc-o-holic” trio completed the meal. While I am not a dessert man myself, Marci was in chocolate heaven. Chocolate cake, chocolate mousse, and chocolate ice cream – what a trio! I think Alex had just cleared the table as we drifted off to sleep. Ahhh…
The water was fairly still, but proved to produce no fish for catching – after some time casting and stalking, we decided to load up the car and head down the road. Where the lake narrows and moves out to sea, there looked to be some large barracuda. The water is so clear – you can see the fish even quite a few yards off! Chad almost connected with one, he was about to recast and the barracuda jumped out of the water at his fly! My attempts also were in vain – a barracuda also snapped a fly right off my line. By 11, the heat starts to set in, so we packed up the rods and headed back to the villa – a cold beer was in our near future.
Today’s ritual included a beautiful spread of treats, we brought out some goat cheese, pepper jack cheese, pork pate, and green olives. I also made some rum mango drinks – I blended fresh mango, light rum, milk, and ice into a fruity treat. My recipe turned out to be a better granita than a boat drink. So, we froze the concoction for a treat later in the week. Oh bother, instead of a mango drink, we had to have Turks Head beers and rum and cokes – the world is such a cruel place!
